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Henro Pilgrimage - Day 21 - May 6 (25km)

It was another night in the tent, and the surfers had warned me it was supposed to rain overnight. Would this be my first morning packing up a wet tent?

My eyes popped open at 3:45. I felt around and realized it hadn’t started raining yet. “No time like the present” - I jumped out of the tent, packed up with the fear it could pour at any moment, and headed off into the predawn darkness. Never have I walked in such blackness. To my left was the sea, to my right the woods. I pressed on like this for a few kilometers, when it occured to me that I was alive. Nothing had sprang out and eaten me, so I rightly concluded that werewolves don’t in fact exist. I glanced up at the moon anyway.

Around 8 I found a small countryside Udon restaurant, somehow open, and I had Tantan Udon. Not much further past that it finally started to rain, and rain it did. I reached today’s lodging, “Anjuku”, by noon, and it was truly pouring. The wind had been in my direction the full length of the valley, so I was quite wet despite all my protection. Luckily I’ve already booked tomorrow’s lodging, and it isn’t supposed to rain.

Animals: Many sagi, many mountain frogs

Osettai: candies

Post-trip Addendum:

The early-morning walk through the darkness was one of my favourite moments of the pilgrimage.

Original Japanese:

三時四十五分に目が覚めた。夜中に雨が降らなかった事に気づき、敢えて起きてテントを速く畳んでその場を後にした。周りは真っ暗。左側を海に、右側を暗黒の森にして何粁か歩いた。途中で食われなかったのでやはり狼男は存在しないと結論。

八時頃に田舎うどん屋で担々うどんを食べた。その少し後に雨がやっと降り出した。どんどん強くなる。昼頃に今日の宿に到着。「安宿」と云う。荷物はまあまあ濡れている。幸い明日も岬の方で宿を取り、雨も降らん(はず)。

動物:鷺、多数・山蛙、多数

お接待:飴

#japan #henro #buddhism

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