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Henro Pilgrimage - Day 21 - May 6 (25km)

It was another night in the tent, and the surfers had warned me it was supposed to rain overnight. Would this be my first morning packing up a wet tent?

My eyes popped open at 3:45. I felt around and realized it hadn’t started raining yet. “No time like the present” - I jumped out of the tent, packed up with the fear it could pour at any moment, and headed off into the predawn darkness. Never have I walked in such blackness. To my left was the sea, to my right the woods. I pressed on like this for a few kilometers, when it occured to me that I was alive. Nothing had sprang out and eaten me, so I rightly concluded that werewolves don’t in fact exist. I glanced up at the moon anyway.

Around 8 I found a small countryside Udon restaurant, somehow open, and I had Tantan Udon. Not much further past that it finally started to rain, and rain it did. I reached today’s lodging, “Anjuku”, by noon, and it was truly pouring. The wind had been in my direction the full length of the valley, so I was quite wet despite all my protection. Luckily I’ve already booked tomorrow’s lodging, and it isn’t supposed to rain.

Animals: Many sagi, many mountain frogs

Osettai: candies

Post-trip Addendum:

The early-morning walk through the darkness was one of my favourite moments of the pilgrimage.

Original Japanese:





#japan #henro #buddhism

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