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Henro Pilgrimage - Day 16

It was truly raining right from the get-go this morning, and I was angry about it. The weatherman had betrayed me, and my right shoulder was oddly in pain. Chikurinji (31) and Zenjibuji (32) were both mountain climbs I hadn’t expected, which irritated me further. There were apparently interesting special exhibits on at Chikurinji, but the rain and my schedule urged me onward. I took the hard way down and the rough, stony trail was quite slippery, but it didn’t kill me and I enjoyed the victory despite being soaked.

At the ferry terminal, I met a woman who had moved from Tōkyō to Hokkaidō and loved it there. Apparently of all her travels, she found it the most beautiful. Were I to go, what would I need? And what about timing?

I had counted on being able to stay at Tanemaji (34), but was turned away. It was still too early in the day for them to permit people into the Tsūyadō. In a rush I called around the area and found a place with an opening about an hour up the road. I was lucky; that place filled up too immediately after that, and was actually over-booked.

Animals: Tons of crab, several sagi.

Post-trip Addendum:

It was this day that changed my mind about Calorie Mate. My emergency bar saved me in an area by the coast where there was just nothing to eat in the afternoon, no shops, no cafés, no convenience stores. At some point I pulled off out of the rain, and under someone’s eaves downed the four small shortcake bars. 400 calories. Nothing much in them but flour and butter, but hey, it saved my afternoon mood.

I say “ferry terminal” but it was a very small, free one provided by the city. The trip was about 5 minutes, but saved probably an hour of walking.

If you’re going to stay in a Tsūyadō, arrive at the temple past 16:00 or so. Otherwise they’re going to tell you that you still have time to make progress and shoo you out.

Original Japanese:


Ferry の乗り場で東京から北海道に移住した人と会った。日本各地を廻ってやはり北海道、と。俺も行こうと思ったら何が必要?タイミングは?



#henro #japan #buddhism

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